Roast Beef Tenderloin with Wasabi-Garlic Cream
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- 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
- 2 large garlic cloves, pressed
- 1 tablespoon prepared wasabi
- 1 2 3/4- to 3-pound beef tenderloin, tied
Combine cream and garlic in saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until reduced to 1 cup, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Whisk in wasabi and cook for 1 minute, remove from heat. Season to taste with salt.
Coat beef with olive oil.
Mix sugar and salt together. Rub this mixture over top and sides(not bottom) of beef. Place on rimmed baking sheet and place in preheated oven. Be sure bottom is not rubbed.
Roast until thermometer inserted into center registers 120°F for rare. Remove from oven; let rest 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Remove strings. Reheat sauce over medium heat. Cut beef into thick slices; serve with sauce.
Beef Wasabi with Hoisin Green Salad & Five-Spice Sweet Potato
This Asian-inspired recipe blends together so well it could be found on the menu of the finest restaurant you've ever been to. We loved making this one. The tenderloin beef and wasabi sauce elegantly match the citrusy sweet potato and hoisin salad, the result is true perfection especially if you're a beef lover.
Ingredients Roast Beef Tenderloin with Wasabi Garl
- 1 1/2 Cups Whipping Cream
- 2 Large Cloves Garlic, pressed
- 1 Tablespoon Prepared Wasabi Paste
- 3 Pound Beef Tenderloin, Tied
- 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
- 1 Tablespoon Salt
- 1 Tablespoon Sugar
Ingredients Winter Salad with Hoisin Vinaigrette
- 2 Tablespoons Hoisin Sauce
- 1 Tablespoon Distilled White Vinegar
- 3 Tablespoons Grapeseed Oil
- 1 Tablespoon Sesame Oil
- 8 Ounce Bag of Spring Salad Mix (mesclun)
- 8 Ounce Can Sliced Water chestnuts, drained
Ingredients Five Spice Sweet Potato
Method for Beef Wasabi with Hoisin Green Salad & Five-Spice Sweet Potato
Method For Roast Beef Tenderloin with Wasabi-Garlic Cream
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Combine whipping cream and garlic in saucepan and cook over medium-high until reduced to 1 cup, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Whisk in wasabi paste, and cook 1 minute. Remove sauce from heat, season with a bit of salt. Place beef tenderloin on rimmed baking sheet, pour olive oil over the beef and roll to coat. Mix salt and sugar then rub over top and sides (not bottom) of beef. Roast until thermometer inserted into center registers 120 degrees F for rare. Remove from oven, let rest 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Remove strings. Reheat sauce over medium heat. Cut beef into thick slices serve with sauce.
Method For Winter Salad with Hoisin Vinaigrette
Place hoisin sauce and vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in grapeseed oil and sesame oil. Place salad mix and water chestnuts in large bowl and toss with dressing, enough to coat. Top with red onion.
Method For Five Spice Sweet Potato
Roast potatoes at 425 degrees F until soft, about 50 minutes. Split in half lengthwise, and dot with salted butter. Sprinkle with Five Spice Powder and freshly grated orange peel.
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 4 beef tenderloin steaks, 1 1/2 inches thick (about 1 3/4 lb)
- 2 cups sliced baby portabella mushrooms
- 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons dry white wine or beef broth
- 1 can (18 oz) Progresso&trade Recipe Starters&trade creamy portabella mushroom cooking sauce
In 10-inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. Sprinkle steaks with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook steaks in butter 4 to 6 minutes, turning once, until deep brown. Reduce heat to low. Cover cook 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare to medium doneness (don't overcook beef will continue to cook while standing). Remove beef to platter cover to keep warm. Increase heat to medium. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to skillet. Add mushrooms and garlic. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring once or twice and scraping up any browned bits, until tender. Add wine and cooking sauce heat to boiling. Reduce heat simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until sauce thickens, stirring occasionally.
Wednesday, January 25, 2006
Meat and 'Taters
On Tuesday night we roasted a beast, baked potatoes and steamed carrots. Here's a nifty thing: we got a Beef Chart! From our butcher, we picked up a free copy of a two-sided beef.org poster which explains all the different cuts of beef, the part of the beast that produces each cut, how each type of cut should be cooked (including done-ness temperatures in both Celsius and Fahrenheit), beef trivia, safe practices for handling raw meat, vitamins contained within said raw meat and a picture of a happy, omnivorous family. Despite this very informative chart and the relatively easy preparation of this meal, we totally fucked it up. (Except the carrots which were much less fucked than the rest.) We started this blog to brag about all the cooking we do but I would be remiss if I did not mention the episodes in which we burn things, sever fingers, eat things that the dog may have already licked, add salt instead of sugar or a tablespoon instead of a teaspoon (this only occurs when the substance being measured is a volcano-hot spice) and continue to prepare foods that have briefly come in contact with the floor. It would cheapen the rest of this site to project an image of consistent perfection (like anyone we know was ever fooled, anyway). What follows is a list of everything we did in a less-than-perfect manner on Tuesday:
Pictured below are the Chipotle Burgers of last week. I had high hopes. The apathy I direct at these burgers is proportional to the apathy exhibited by Canadians on federal election day. The papers said that nearly 66% of 33 million people voted and it seemed that there was some pride in this number. Um, why? Relatively speaking, it is better than the voter turn-out in the last two elections (2000 & 2004) but can we not do better as citizens of a democratic nation? For crying out loud, some people in the world would give their left arm to be able to vote in a free and fair election. It astonishes me how some people continue to ignore the privilege of being able to voice their opinion. One voice in 33,000,000 is quiet but is still better than no voice at all. I don't even really know who or what to blame for the lack of interest the would-be voters? the weather? an imperfect manifestation of a democratic government? evil? Céline Dion? (She is rich. And Quebecoise. She could be a part of a great sovereignist conspiracy to tirgger apathy in Canadian voters with her music. The message could be subliminal, in her songs. Think about it.) Amusingly enough, some people are vehemently dedicated to their apathy. "I don't care. I don't want to care. It doesn't matter and it never will. Also, I love Céline Dion." I would like to see what would happen if their right to, say, travel freely about the country were taken away. And their right to watch TV. Oooh, ooh, AND, the right to eat meat. Now who needs democracy- huh?! Wanna vote? Psych! And, another thing- it's actually insulting to those Canadians who do vote why should they be forced to carry the burden of being responsible and making decisions for the rest of the population that is too lazy to look out for themselves. Oh sure, The Lazies will accept public medicare or speak freely in public, or accept a Canadian pension, or put money into a tax-sheltered RSP but they are not willing to pay for those privileges with the smallest of fees: getting off of the ass and casting of the vote. Honestly, it is unfair to accept these privileges without having paid especially when the price is so small. Go ahead and spoil your vote, even, if it means you recognize how lucky you are to live in a place that grants you at least, basic rights and freedoms. Whew, I should stop. Pretty soon, I'll start sounding like Rush Limbaugh. The best part is that as I type this, somewhere in Quebec someone is being "sponsored" by the government to research voter apathy. P.S. I choose to bitch about voter turn-out because if I try to actually discuss the results of the election, it angries-up the blood and I get too upset to type.
Feb. 6 through Feb. 13, 2012
Happy Valentine’s Day! If you’re not going out for a candlelight dinner tonight, why not make one at home? You might enjoy a radically elegant Filet of Beef with Wasabi Cream (recipe below from Radically Simple) or my heart-shaped meatloaf from Little Meals. Share the love. A St. Amour beaujolais would be a nice wine to drink. And of course, serve something chocolate for dessert. Perhaps a “Little Black Dress Chocolate Cake” accessorized with fresh raspberries and powdered sugar (or gold leaf!)
Tastes of the week: In a nutshell, two terrific meals last week at Le Bernardin and at abckitchen. I haven’t been to Le Bernardin in years and was eager to see the new design. While I am still partial to the original “look” created by uber-architect Phil George (with the wonderful paintings by Abelard Favela — a revered artist from Mexico), the new Le Bernardin is arresting in its cool, warm look and remarkable 24-foot painting (I swore it was a photo) of a stormy sea by Brooklyn artist, Ran Ortner. In celebrating my cousin’s special birthday, we had the three-course prix fixe lunch with an additional “middle course” of ethereal fettuccine with a truffle bolognese. Sublime. But the most stunning dish was a first course of barely cooked shrimp and foie gras. The most “French” tasting dish I’ve had in a long while. The rest of the menu — octopus, red snapper, lobster, were all first-rate as were the desserts — not too crazy (as so many have become) but intelligently crafted and beautifully executed.
At abckitchen, I had my favorite starter, the kabocha squash and ricotta bruschetta, the famous roasted carrot salad, a wondrous sashimi, and a pizza to share, laden with spinach, herbs and goat cheese. Chef Dan Kluger has perfect “flavor” pitch.
And then there was the very good guacamole at Rosa Mexicano on East 18th Street. The size of a small neighborhood, the place felt very democratic and alive. The signature dish is the table-side guacamole, made from perfectly-ripe avocados, mashed and tossed with tomato, jalapeno, lime juice and more. I loved that it was served at room temperature (those avocados never saw the inside of a refrigerator.) And while I rarely drink margaritas, no less a pomegranate one, and no less a frozen one, Rosa Mexicano’s version rocks. Almost ordered a second. It is interesting that Jonathan Waxman decided to become the executive chef of this upscale chain and no doubt will bring his formidable expertise to the kitchen. I always think of the amazing woman who started it all — Josefina Howard — who was among the first to bring sophisticated Mexican food to New York — in stylish surroundings, with a sexy vibe, excellent food, and those…wonderful pomegranate margaritas. She is greatly missed and one of New York’s great women-in-food.
Happy Valentine’s day. Food is love.
Filet of Beef with Wasabi-Garlic Cream (from Radically Simple)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-3/4-pound filet of beef, tied
1 tablespoon sugar
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
2 very large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 tablespoon prepared wasabi
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Drizzle the oil on a rimmed baking sheet roll the filet in the oil. Combine the sugar and 1 tablespoon kosher salt. Rub into the top and sides of the filet, but not the bottom or it will burn. Roast the beef 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer registers 125 degrees for rare. Meanwhile, bring the cream and garlic to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce the heat and cook, stirring, until reduced to 1 cup, about 15 minutes. Push the softened garlic through a press whisk back into the sauce. Add the wasabi, cook 1 minute and remove from the heat. Add salt. Transfer the beef to a cutting board. Let rest 10 minutes. Gently reheat the sauce. Remove the strings from the beef and thickly slice. Serve with the sauce.
Roast Beef Tenderloin with Sautéed Mushrooms
- 1 3/4 to 2 pound piece of beef tenderloin (preferably a piece cut from the center of the tenderloin), trimmed of excess fat and silverskin
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon coarse black pepper
- 1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced into 1/8 to 1/4-inch thick slices
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 1 teaspoon salt (use 1/2 teaspoon if using salted butter)
- 2 tablespoons minced shallots
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic
- 1 1/2 teaspoons of Herbs de Provence or a teaspoon of dried tarragon
Remove roast from refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before cooking so that it has time to come close to room temperature. Sprinkle all sides with salt and pepper and set aside.
When ready to cook the tenderloin roast, preheat oven to 425°F. Heat olive oil in a cast iron or thick-bottomed sauté pan that can take the heat, on high heat. When the oil is hot, place the roast in the pan and brown it on all sides, including the ends, about 10 minutes.
When sufficiently browned, remove the roast from the pan (do not clean out the pan) and place on a roasting pan.
Place in the oven and roast at 425F until the internal temperature is 130°F for rare (140°F for medium), about 20 minutes (or longer if your roast wasn't at room temp to begin with. Use a meat thermometer!
Remove from oven and loosely tent with foil to rest for 15 to 20 minutes before slicing.
While the roast is resting, prepare the mushrooms. Add 3 tablespoons of butter to the same pan you used to sear the beef roast. Heat on medium heat to melt the butter. Add the minced shallots and garlic, and cook for half a minute.
Stir the mushrooms into the pan and cook until they start to give off steam. Then add salt, pepper, and herbs de provence. Continue to cook until just cooked through.
Add a few tablespoons of warm water to the pan to scrape up any remnants from the bottom of the pan (can also use white wine or marsala). Remove from heat.
Use a sharp knife to slice the roast across the grain into 1/4 to 1/2-inch thick slices. Serve with the sautéed mushrooms.
Sunday, November 12, 2006
At the risk of being accused of bastardizing a classic, Brilliant Daughter and I reinvented the old-time favorite snickerdoodle to incorporate flavorful chai spices. (Brilliant because she came up with the idea in the first place.)
Snickerdoodles were one of the kids’ favorite cookies growing up. I didn’t make them as often as say, Tollhouse Chocolate Chip, as they required hand rolling in a sugar/cinnamon mixture, which was a bit more time consuming and meant my eyes were less attentive to active children (though they did like to help me roll the cookies in the sugar—hands caked in cinnamon by the end). But these cookies were always well received, not only by my own kids, but by the neighborhood kids as well. Snickerdoodles are a rich buttery-eggy tasting cookie with a slightly crisp sugar/cinnamon outer shell. The ingredients are basic, the dough easy and quick to make, with the only requirement that you hand roll the dough into balls and coat in sugar and cinnamon.
We were debating the origin of the snickerdoodle, or at least the hilarity of the name, and to further educate ourselves we found the following information at the James Beard Foundation: Foundation Snickerdoodles are: A cookie with character. There’s no question that these simple, old-fashioned, cinnamon-dusted sugar cookies are delicious, but culinary historians have a difficult time reaching consensus on the origin of their funny name. Sherry Yard in her Secrets of Baking contends that snickerdoodles are named after a character from an early 20th century children’s story. Apparently, Snickerdoodle (nephew of Yankee Doodle and cousin to Polly Wolly Doodle) was a tiny guy who drove a peanut car and heroically solved big problems—much like a snickerdoodle with a glass of milk can do on a rough day. Others argue that snickerdoodle is merely a nonsense word like doodly-squat, a word that gave rise to the song “Yankee Doodle Dandy.” Still other historians believe that snickerdoodle is, in fact, a very old name that comes from a New England tradition of giving little cakes and cookies fantastical names, such as Jolly Boys, Tangle Breeches, and Kinkawoodles. Snickerdoodles resemble many cookies that have come from England and Germany, but New Englanders usually get credit for their creation in the 18th or 19th century when a slew of similar spice cookies was popular. The recipe for these homey cookies reveals their age: it typically calls for cream of tartar and baking soda—not baking power as a more modern recipe might.
My snickerdoodle recipe is old and loved and I have never wavered from it. But we have been experimenting lately with flavorings for bread pudding, and the last one in the test kitchen was a chai bread pudding because we are a chai-loving household. Introduced to us by our Nepali friend Raj, it is a winter staple, warm and frothy, its scent permeating the whole house as it simmers. So there was a natural progression of thought, at least in our mind, with the bread pudding, chai, and snickerdoodles. Combining two of our favorite things to make something new seems to be our mission these days. So, we took the basic recipe, adjusted the rolling mixture, and saved ourselves some time by scooping the dough with a small ice cream scoop.
So, without further ado, we offer you the Chaidoodle:
1 c butter, softened
1 ½ c sugar
2 /34 cup flour
2 t cream of tartar
1 t soda
¼ t salt
Cream together the first 3 ingredients. Sift dry ingredients together and add to creamed mixture, incorporating well. Shake together the following in a lidded plastic container:
3-4 T sugar
1 t ground cardamom
2 t cinnamon
¼ t clove
¼ t ginger
¼ t allspice
Roll dough into walnut-size balls, or scoop with small ice-cream scooper, and drop several at a time into the lidded container. Shake to coat, and place on ungreased cookie sheet or silpat. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, or until cookies puff up and flatten out and are slightly brown.
The Many Ways to Make a Bolognese Recipe
October 12, 2009
My brother Tom and his wife, Liza, recently brought into this world their first child, a beautiful little boy, Luca. Last week, I took one look at him swaddled on their Brooklyn couch and said to myself, “Yes, I’m ready to be a grandparent.” Then I thought about what advice I might give my brother.
When I first became a parent, I learned that there are at dozens of different ways to do any child-related task, from breast-versus-bottle feeding, to plastic-versus-glass bottles, to milk-versus-soy-based formula to co-sleeping, attachment parenting, and Ferberizing. What I took away from the surfeit of opinions was that there was no right way to do anything. No right way, therefore, no wrong way. I was in business as a father.
I considered how I could sum this up to him. I concluded that the easiest thing to tell him is that there are as many ways to make a Bolognese as there are to parent.
In his book about learning how to cook Italian food, “Heat,” Bill Buford enumerates a few of the variations: “A Bolognese is made with a medieval kitchen’s quirky sense of ostentation and flavorings. There are at least two meats (beef and pork, although local variations can insist on veal instead of beef, prosciutto instead of pork, and sometimes prosciutto, pancetta, sausage, and pork, not to mention capon, turkey, or chicken livers) and three liquids (milk, wine, and broth), and either tomatoes (if your family is modern) or no tomatoes (if the family recipe is older than Columbus), plus nutmeg, sometimes cinnamon, and whatever else your great-great-great-grandmother said was essential”
Most Americans I know have little knowledge of what their great-great-great grandmothers might have cooked (or what she might have thought was essential when it came to child rearing). My brother and I are no exception. In a great-grandparent’s place, we have authorities like Marcella Hazan and Mark Bittman.
- The meat should not be from too lean a cut the more marbled it is, the sweeter the ragù will be. The most desirable cut of beef is the neck portion of the chuck.
- Add salt immediately when sautéing the meat to extract its juices for the subsequent benefit of the sauce.
- Cook the meat in milk before adding wine and tomatoes to protect it from the acidic bite of the latter.
She goes on, but I won’t. I adapted my recipe from Mark Bittman’s “How to Cook Everything,” and I’ve never cooked it with milk. Someday I may try it, but for now I don’t want to mess with something that works.
A friend of mine, who cooks for his family all the time, describes serving Bolognese to his children as “an easy ground ball.” There’s no problem getting them to field it. Around our house, an evening of Bolognese has often been accompanied by dancing on the part of Nina, who likes it so much she celebrates.
Recently, however, she has cut back on her consumption of the sauce. It could be that her tastes have changed, or might just be the fickleness of a four-year-old. Either way, I wanted to get her eating it again, so I made a slight adjustment to my method. I realized that my meat was clumping (perhaps a consequence of skipping the milk step?), and I remedied that by crushing the cooked ground beef with a potato masher. I wasn’t sure if the more finely pulverized beef made a bigger difference than fact that I told her that I’d made it special for her, but Nina loved my latest version of it.
One note on the sauce: It may take hours to cook (during which period your house will smell heavenly), but it freezes extremely well and, if packed in quart or smaller container, defrosts on a low heat in the brief amount of time it takes to boil water and make pasta, making it a perfect alternative to a weeknight take-out dinner. Plus, it will taste much better than anything that comes out of a steaming cardboard box.
Bolognese Meat Sauce (the Park Slope Way)
- ف onion, chopped
- 2-3 carrots, chopped
- 1 stalk of celery, chopped
- 2 slices of bacon, chopped
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 1/2 cup white (or red) wine
- 11/2 lb ground beef
- 3 cans of peeled plum tomatoes, diced to bits with an immersion blender
- Cinnamon and nutmeg to taste
Saute the onion, carrot, celery, and bacon until the vegetables are soft and the bacon fat rendered.
Add the beef and cook it until it is brown.
Add the tomatoes and the spices and simmer until thick (about three hours).
- 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 10 fluid ounces white wine
- ¼ cup minced shallots
- 1 tablespoon wasabi paste, or to taste
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 1 cup unsalted butter, cubed
- salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, or as needed
- 1 cup chopped cilantro leaves
- 6 (6 ounce) fresh tuna steaks, 1 inch thick
Combine the white wine vinegar, white wine and shallots in a small saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Strain out shallot and discard, return liquid to the pan.
Stir the wasabi and soy sauce into the reduction in the pan. Over low heat, gradually whisk in butter one cube at a time allowing the mixture to emulsify. Be careful not to let the mixture boil. When all of the butter has been incorporated, stir in cilantro, and remove from heat. Pour into a small bowl, and set aside.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brush tuna steaks with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place in the hot skillet, and sear for 3 to 5 minutes on each side. Be careful not to overcook, this fish should be served still a little pink in the center. Serve with sauce.